Every year, as Florida’s Gulf waters begin to cool and the winter air settles in, something magical happens beneath the surface. From November through late March, manatees make their annual pilgrimage from the chilly open waters of the Bay and the Gulf into the state’s warm, crystal-clear springs.
Manatees, officially known as Trichechus Manatus Latirostris, are massive herbivores. They can weigh up to 1,200 pounds, but in the water, they move gracefully and have earned the nickname sea cows and Florida potatoes. The Florida manatee is one of four subspecies (the others are West Indian, Amazonian and West African).
What draws them to the springs is not the clarity of the turquoise waters, but the temperature – a steady 72 degrees year-round. When ocean temperatures drop below 68 degrees, the springs become their refuge.
My manatee viewing experience began at Crystal River, the epicenter of manatee encounters and a place that looks too beautiful to be real. From the dock where our boat tour departed, I could see straight through the shimmering turquoise water to the sandy bottom. Crystal River and Three Sisters Springs are world famous for manatee viewing, and for good reason. Here, you don’t just see manatees; you are legally allowed to swim with them. It is the only place in the country where that is allowed, provided you follow strict wildlife guidelines. No harassing, chasing or touching them and it is strictly enforced. Violators will be fined $500, so it’s best to follow the rules. Passive observance is key, but to the delight of many, these inquisitive animals are known to get up close and personal with their observers, sometimes brushing against them or swimming in proximity, seemingly hamming it up for their underwater fans. Many tours offer wetsuits and snorkels free of charge with your booking, so if the water is too chilly in the Florida winter, be sure to inquire.
After Crystal River, we continued our manatee journey through Florida’s “manatee belt,” stopping at some of the other iconic springs that become seasonal sanctuaries. Just up the road from our boat tour was Three Sisters Springs, inaccessible by water during manatee season, but still offering breathtaking viewing on their nature trail and boardwalk. The clarity of the water was like looking through blue-tinted glass. During the winter, up to 800 manatees have been counted there, although on our visit it was only about 300, which was still amazing. Further north, Blue Spring State Park near Orange City offered another memorable moment for manatee spotting. Here, hundreds gather during the coldest stretches of winter, when they also close the water to swimming and kayaking, as the sanctuary is transformed into an endless bubble of Florida potatoes. We walked the long boardwalk in total awe, stopping every few feet to watch mothers and calves drift together. Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park was another highlight, especially for learning about conservation efforts and seeing manatees that are being rehabilitated. It reminded me that, while seeing these gentle giants in the wild is enchanting, protecting them is essential. Rounding out our tour was a famous Florida roadside attraction open seasonally and free to the public. The moment we stepped onto the boardwalk at the Manatee Viewing Center in Apollo Beach, I felt like we had wandered into Florida’s greatest winter tradition. As the warm water from the Big Bend power station poured in, hundreds of manatees gathered, bobbing in the water along with several sharks, much to my surprise. I leaned over the rail, mesmerized at how unbothered they were by their aquatic neighbors. The center itself is a great experience for the whole family with educational exhibits, a touch tank, and a short nature trail where I spotted more wildlife, reminding me that this place is more than a warm-water pit stop for manatees.
By the time our season of manatee exploration ended, this bucket list adventure set was not only a memory maker, but also a reminder of how important it is for all of us to protect these amazing creatures. If you’ve ever dreamed of experiencing manatee season for yourself, don’t wait. The springs are calling, and the potatoes are waiting.